Montag, 14. Dezember 2015

Chanukka sameach!

Happy Chanukka! Today is already the last of the 8 days of Chanukka. It was also celebrated in the physics faculty. Every afternoon at 5pm, people from the whole faculty met in the entrance hall and somebody lit candles on the chanukkia (nine-branched candelabrum) according to the day. At first I was surprised to see nine branches instead of the famous seven of the so called menora. It becomes clear with the (hi)story.
After fights against the Hellenistic occupation and an altar for Zeus in the temple, only a small jug of consecrated olive oil was left that was expected to be just enough to light the candles in the temple for one day. In the end, the miracle was reported that it lasted for eight days. For this reason, on Chanukka, one more candle per day is lit. So on the first day, the central candle is lit that is in turn used to light the first candle (in total 2). On the second day, the central candle plus two regular candles, and so on until on the eighth day, all 9 candles shine. There are even 9 candles below the traffic lights of the main street of Rehovot.
Since oil plays such an important role, the traditional Chanukka food is fried in a lot of oil: sufganiot (doughnuts/Berliner) and levivot (potato/vegetable pancake, jiddish latkes). In fact, these two specialities and other sweets were served every day in the physics department! (This compensates for all the Spekulatius, Lebkuchen, Plätzchen that I do not eat during the advent season...) Today I was at a conference that ended with amazing sufganiot, not only filled with jam, but with other sweat creams and decorated with chocolate on top.
While somebody lights the candles, one of the traditional Chanukka songs is sung. In the physics department, every day somebody also gave a little speach, for example once a Jewish physicist told about his childhood in North America, where Chanukka has to "compete" with Christmas. He also highlighted that Chanukka is less commercialised. Children often receive dmei chanukka, small presents like chocolate coins and a sevivon (spinning top) with 4 sides that show the letters נגהפ/ש (nun, gimel, he, pe/shin) for "nes gadol haya po/sham" (a big miracle was here/there, depending on whether the player is in Israel or in the diaspora). Today at the Hebrew course we also received a spinning top and sufganiot made by our teacher!

Only once the tradition appeared weird to me when 2 orthodox men walked into a pizzeria, installed candles in the chanukkia and asked a guest to light the candles. But for this, they put a kippa on his head although he does not wear a kippa otherwise.

Apart from that, chanukka as the festival of lights creates a cosy atmosphere on the dark "winter" days. Religious and historical traditions seem to mix with the ambition to create the most delicious and fancy sufganiot...

Samstag, 5. Dezember 2015

Israeli-German chamber music ensemble

So good that I took my viola with me to Israel! It did not take long until I found a chamber music ensemble here. Niv, who plays the violin, and Renan, who is a pianist, have recently moved from Haifa to Rehovot to continue their studies at the Weizmann Institute, and they were looking for 3 more chamber musicians to found a piano quintet.
So far, the three of us have been practising Schumann's beautiful "Märchenerzählungen" (originally for clarinet, viola and piano, but the version with violin sounds also great) in the music room on campus. In order to complete the quintet, now we have found an German violinist, Ilja, who also attended the Hebrew course, and an Israeli cellist. Soon the Dvorak rehearsals will start. Up to now, we have been rehearsing in English. Maybe I know more music vocabulary in Finnish (due to 1 year in YS, the university orchestra of Helsinki) than in English. I hope that sooner or later my Hebrew will reach a level that allows for rehearsals in Hebrew!

Freitag, 4. Dezember 2015

Sick abroad :(

Being sick is not nice, and being sick abroad might be an adventure. Luckily, Israel is known for its high medical standards. However, so short after our arrival in this foreign country, our immune systems still need to learn how to fight against the local viruses and bacteria...

Some weeks ago, my stomach suffered from some food I was not used to, but after one day, I was fit again.
While November is the typical time in Germany for a cold, it surprised me that both of us caught a cold here at 25°C. Even worse, my sore throat turned into an inflammation in the ear. After several days of pain, I looked unsuccessfully for precise information about doctors in Rehovot online, so I asked colleagues if they could recommend me someone. I called the number a colleague gave me, explained my ear ache in a mixture of Hebrew and English and got an appointment for the following day. When I arrived, the doctor's receptionist could not find me on the list. She asked me to come with her to a separate room. It seemed quite strange to me. Then she explained me I should go 2 streets further, enter building no. 4 and ask on the 3rd floor for a treatment of my ear. Okay, so I walked to the other street, entered a big building and found many people on the 3rd floor. In fact, it seemed to be a medical center as they are apparently typical in Israel.
The receptionist spoke less English than I Hebrew, so I tried to explain her my story how I was sent there from the other place in Hebrew (just 2 days before I had learned how to form the past tense of some verbs...). Luckily, I had prepared a list of words like "health insurance", "inflammation",... beforehand. Then she asked me if I wanted a
 רופא אף אזן גרון (nose throat ear doctor). Another patient had cancelled his appointment, so I did not need to wait, but she led me directly along the long corridor with many doors of many doctors' rooms to the specialist and explained him my situation with the German health insurance in Hebrew (I understood only very few words). The doctor asked me if I could speak English. I was very relieved that my extremely limited knowledge of Hebrew would not be needed in this situation. The doctor was very friendly, asked why I moved to Israel, how I like working at the Weizmann Institute (his wife also works there), if physics was a difficult subject and with so few women... Quickly, he found a diagnosis, prescribed some drops from the pharmacy and then wondered about the reimbursement procedure with my German health insurance (for 3 years abroad). Then he concluded that, because I am so nice and he is so nice and he does not like bureaucracy like signing a form for the insurance, he would not take any money!
Instead he wished me shabbat shalom and that I should enjoy my postdoc time in Israel!

Samstag, 28. November 2015

Archaeology and hike in the desert: Mamshit

Two weeks ago, we were lucky to get the chance of visiting the desert again! Uri, the oldest son of Yossi (the professor who had picked us up from the airport), was planning a trip to the desert with his friends and he offered us two seats in his car :-) In total, we were eight people: six Israelis and us, so that we learned a lot about the country and had a long conversation about politics in the car.
We drove to the Mamshit National Park with an archaeological site (UNESCO world heritage) and a hiking trail trough a valley.  The ancient city had been founded 2000 years ago by the Nabateans, a people who lived in the desert and had an extensive trade network on the Arabian Peninsula and in the Levante. Their most famous city is Petra in Jordan.  At Mamshit, one can also find Roman pillars from the time when the Nabatean kingdom became a Roman province. In addition to living houses with mosaics on the floor and a tower, we also saw a street of the former Nabatean market and a Byzantine bathhouse - all very impressive!
Then we walked through the Wadi Mamshit, the valley of a dry river. Only due to the recent rainfalls, there were few ponds. We even saw a few animals in the desert: marmots, birds, lizards, insects, rock hyraxes (looking a bit similar to a marmot/marten), a fox and camels (from a nearby camel farm)!




 



Samstag, 7. November 2015

Sun, rain and sandstorm

What a climate zone with 30°C in November! When we arrived here in mid October, the temperatures climbed even above 30°C and it was so humid that we were already sweating from doing nothing. Even at night it was still too warm for us. In our second week here, the rain season started. Rain here is not the same as rain in central Europe. When it starts, it is no drizzle, but immediately an extreme rainfall that might be switched off as suddenly as it started. In the last week of October there were also strong storms that caused short power outages. However, after the first rain of the season, it did not cool down very much. At least it is less humid now and temperatures in the past week (first week of November) ranged between 20 and 30°C.
On Wednesday it was quite grey and the view was not very clear. At first we thought that it was just cloudy and foggy, but later we learned that a lot of sand from the desert was in the air due to strong winds from the north of Saudi-Arabia. This caused a severe air pollution and such a restricted sight distance that some flights had to be cancelled.
In fact, our apartment gets dusty very quickly when we leave the windows open. After the sandstorm, in particular our balcony was covered by a layer of red-yellowish sand - now we know where it came from.

Anyway, it is a funny feeling to walk outside all the time in a t-shirt although it is already November. I won't complain!

Old Jaffa, concert and Rabin

On Saturday, October 31st, we visited the old part of Tel Aviv: Jaffa, an old Arabic harbour and trading town that now belongs to Tel Aviv. From the Jaffa hill, one also has a nice view of the coastline of Tel Aviv.  You can find mosques with minarets, a synagogue and churches in this part of town - and  a lot of tourists. Indeed it is a beautiful district and quite a contrast to modern Tel Aviv. In Jaffa, we walked through paths of old stones, from the main square on a hill down to the lively harbour where we watched the sunset.
Directly after sunset, we were surprised by a sudden, very loud sound: from the mosque! The imam was starting his prayer, amplified by loudspeakers on the outer part of the minaret.

Later in the evening in a different neighbourhood, we had a delicious dinner in a restaurant located directly opposite of the entrance of a large synagogue. The place was full of young people and we were lucky to get the last free table. We ate eggplants and eggs in a spicy tomato sauce and green Jericho beans.

Afterwards, we walked along the elegant Rothschild boulevard towards the concert hall. There I listened to an overwhelmingly beautiful concert by my former class mate Igor Levit from Hannover who is now a world-renowned pianist, the designated conductor of the Berlin Philhamornics, Kirill Petrenko, and the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra. Inside the concert hall, it nearly felt like being in Europe.
Meanwhile, Matthias was walking around, taking pictures and by chance ended up at the square in front of the town hall with a crowd of people and music. Then Bill Clinton spoke. It was in honour of Yitzhak Rabin who had been killed exactly at that place 20 years ago by a Jewish extremist after Rabin had signed the Oslo Accords for peace with the Palestinians.

















Into the Desert

On Friday, October 30th, we went into the Negev desert. The trip for international researchers of the Weizmann Institute was organised by the Visiting Scientists Office - what a fanstastic offer! The full bus left early in the morning and we went first to the national park Ein Avdat. On the way it was already fascinating to look out of the windows, see the desert, some small villages with camels and kibbutzim. In the days before our trip, there had been quite heavy rain. When we arrived, the desert looked as dry as expected, but some ponds in the were fuller, the tour guide explained, and at some few places we could see some fresh green and even flowers which had just exploded out of the sand.
First, we hiked through a canyon between white rocks. The water, a waterfall and plants in an oasis looked really beautiful. We also saw ibexes and a vulture, but all participants survived the tour so that the vulture had to wait for other food ;-) From the river, we hiked up to the rim, which was quite steep, but offered a great view.
The next stop was the tomb of David Ben-Gurion, the founder and first prime minister of Israel, who was also committed to the development of the desert for agricultural use. From there, we enjoyed a breath-taking view of the landscape.
Furthermore, we also stopped at HaMachtesh HaGadol, the second largest crater in the Negev, and during sunset at a beautiful place with water, where children even went swimming.

I am sure we will travel to the desert again!


















Recommended blogs

If you are interested in more information and impressions from this region, I can highly recommend you to have a look at the following other blogs:

  • the video blog "Zwischen Mittelmeer und Jordan" (in German) where a German journalist (ARD correspondent Richard C. Schneider at the Tel Aviv studio) reports about current happenings in Israel, interviews different people in the Israel and provides a lot of background information, e.g. on the conflict at the temple mount: https://www.tagesschau.de/videoblog/zwischen_mittelmeer_und_jordan/
  • the photo blog by Matthias, of course there is a correlation between his and my blog, but on his you will find less text, therefore pictures of higher photographic and artistic quality: http://bluerambler.jimdo.com/
  • the blog of a young volunteer for a social project at Bethlehem with detailed, shocking reports about the reality in the Westbank: http://emgoesbethlehem.jimdo.com/
I hope you will also keep reading my blog ;-)

Donnerstag, 29. Oktober 2015

Presentation of the new postdocs and culture of discussions

The weekly national particle physics meeting took place at the Weizmann Institute yesterday. After the seminar and the tasty lunch, the agenda said "Introduction of the 3 new postdocs" (Ryosuke, Matthias and me). We had been asked to prepare short presentations to introduce ourselves and our research interests. What a nice opportunity to start discussions with our new colleagues from the Weizmann Institute, Tel Aviv University and the Technion in Haifa. Each of us prepared 10-13 slides and we thought it would take ca. 15 minutes per person. We had underestimated the seminar & discussion culture in this country ;-) During our talks, there were already very many questions so that it was quite interactive and took twice as long as estimated... But the audience stayed awake.
This weekly joint meeting is a really interesting format of seminar, journal club and discussions. Next week, we will all go to Haifa (in the north of the country) and I am looking forward to the trip and the physics!

Weizmann choir

Of course, I am also looking for a music ensemble here :-) I have already practised the viola in the apartment (no neighbour complained), and there is even a music room on campus that I might try out soon. So far, I have not found a university orchestra.
Instead, there was an announcement that the Weizmann choir was looking for new members. It was very nice to meet singers from many different departments at the first rehearsal of the new semester. Most of them were from Israel and at the beginning, everyone should introduce him/herself and say where he/she lives. "Shalom, ani Elina mi Germania ve achshav ani gara be Rehovot." Yeah, I can say few sentences in Hebrew :-) Most likely, I won't understand the answer, though...
To make it easier for us few non-Hebrew speakers, the first rehearsal was mostly in English. It was fun to sing, but unfortunately, we sang only half a song during the long rehearsal. Given that the Hebrew course will start soon with 5 hours/week, I decided not to join the choir. Staying for 3 years is really different from just one exchange year. I have time to start an activity later...

Samstag, 24. Oktober 2015

Friday in Tel Aviv

We spent a fantastic day in Tel Aviv :-) At noon, we listened to an impressive chamber music concert of the Musethica Chamber Music Festival in the conservatory. (Just arrived in a new country, I knew about the festival thanks to my cousin who works for this association.)
With a colleague whom we met already at a summer school last year we walked through a park along the river to the former harbour of Tel Aviv, but now there are rather cafés and a market hall for specialities. Then we walked along the beautiful beach and through streets that were also mentioned in the dialogues of our Hebrew textbook from the course that we took in Germany :-)
In a café we ate delicious salads, for example tabouleh with bulgur, vegetables, pecan nuts, parsley, mint - and of course tchina (tahini), a sesame paste that is added to seemingly nearly every dish.
Sunset at the beach was beautiful.